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  • Classic vs Volume Lashes: The Lowdown

    by Holly Barrow September 04, 2021 6 min read

    classic vs volume lash extensions | London Lash USA
    Table of Contents

      Classic vs Volume Lashes: What’s the Difference?

      The main difference between classic and volume lashes is the application: classic lashes use one extension per suitable natural lash, while volume lashes use a fan of finer extensions. Classic sets usually create a more defined finish, while volume allows for a fuller, fluffier appearance. The final look depends on the design and the client’s natural lashes.

      Whether you’re a seasoned lash guru or just starting out, it’s never a bad idea to take it back to basics and refresh your knowledge. When we think of the various types of eyelash extensions, the terms most likely to pop into your head are Classic lashes, Volume lashes and Hybrid lashes. These are three of the most popular lash styles, so we thought it would be a good idea to have a recap of Classic vs Volume lashes – after all, these are likely to be your most in-demand lash sets!

      Classic vs volume lash extensions at a glance
      Feature Classic Lashes Volume Lashes
      Application One extension per suitable natural lash. A fan of finer extensions per suitable natural lash.
      Typical Finish Defined, separated lashes with a mascara-like effect. A softer, fluffier finish with adjustable fullness.
      Customization Different curls, lengths and suitable thicknesses. Different curls, lengths, fan sizes and suitable thicknesses.
      Time and Price Often a shorter appointment and lower price, depending on the service. Often takes longer and costs more, depending on the technique and artist.
      Maintenance Regular aftercare and fills based on the individual client. Regular aftercare and fills; volume does not automatically mean fewer appointments.

      Classic lash extensions

      What Are Classic Eyelash Extensions?

      Classic lashes are achieved when one single extension is applied to one natural lash, typically providing an overall more natural look for the client. This is the most basic lash technique but has remained one of the most popular for a number of reasons – one of which being that they are ideal for clients who wish to add a little length to their own lashes while maintaining a natural-looking finish.

      As a Lash Technician you can, however, achieve different finishes with Classic lashes, depending on what your client is looking for. If your client wants to achieve the ‘mascara effect’, lash artists may choose 0.15 lash extensions where suitable. Whereas if your client wants their lashes to look subtly enhanced, 0.12 lash extensions may be an option. You’re not limited to only one thickness, but your choice should always suit the natural lash supporting the extension!

      When it comes to the length of the extensions, consider the client’s natural lash length, strength and the overall weight of the extension rather than relying on one fixed rule. If you’re going for density, you can even opt for lengths shorter than the natural lashes! Remember, classic lashes are often chosen for a subtle enhancement – you don’t need excessive length to create a beautiful finish.

      Classic lash extensions

      What Are Volume Lashes?

      Volume lashes are achieved when multiple individual lash extensions are fanned out and the fan is applied to one suitable natural lash. This method is commonly known as the Russian volume technique and is more advanced and technical than the classic lash technique. The extensions used in a Volume lash set are much thinner than those used in a classic lash set. Thicknesses such as 0.07 may be used, with the diameter and number of extensions selected together to suit the natural lash.

      The number of extensions used to create a fan is important in determining the overall appearance of Volume lashes. If two extensions are used within the fan and applied to one natural lash, this is known as 2D. If three extensions are used, this would be 3D, and so on. Larger fans require appropriately finer extensions and suitable training; fan count alone does not determine whether a set is suitable. You can explore our Online Russian Volume Course to develop your volume technique.

      Lash extension chart

      Volume lashes can provide a bolder appearance in comparison to Classic lashes and are great for creating a more dramatic look. While you have some creative freedom with Classic lashes, volume fans give you more ways to adjust fullness. They can also create a soft, natural-looking finish – volume doesn’t have to mean dramatic!

      Crucially, Volume lashes and cluster lashes are not the same. Professional volume fans are applied to individual natural lashes, rather than attaching a cluster across several natural lashes. Suitable fan weight, careful isolation and correct application are important for avoiding unnecessary strain on the natural lashes.

      Cluster lashes

      The Main Differences Between Classic and Volume Lashes

      When it comes to weighing up the differences between classic and volume lashes, they can be summarized quite simply:

      • Classic lashes typically provide a more defined, natural lash look, whereas volume lashes allow a fuller, fluffier appearance.
      • Volume lashes consist of finer extensions made into fans.
      • Classic lashes consist of one single extension being applied to a natural lash, while volume lashes use a fan of extensions on each suitable natural lash.
      • Volume lashes can be created using both premade fans and handmade fans.

      It is important to note that not every Classic lash set will be the same and neither will every volume lash set. In fact, you should always actively tailor your lash sets to your client’s natural lashes, as well as their overall wishes. The more you can customize your lash sets, the better you can match the finished look to your client, as not every lash curl will suit every eye shape. It’s important to identify when to use a specific lash curl, length and thickness depending on the client. Both Classic lashes and Volume lashes can consist of various different lash curls and lengths. It’s by no means a one-size-fits-all situation!

      Classic eyelash extensions

      Should I Get Classic or Volume Lashes?

      Lash Technicians are extremely familiar with the ‘Classic vs Volume lashes’ question and there’s no one right answer. It all depends on:

      • The look your client wishes to achieve – natural, defined, fluffy or dramatic?
      • Their eye shape and the condition of their natural lashes. For clients with naturally sparse lashes who want a fuller look, volume lashes may be an option if their natural lashes can support the chosen fans.
      • Their budget and available appointment time. Volume often takes longer and costs more, but this varies by artist, technique and service.

      Volume lash extensions fan

      For those clients who really can’t decide which look they’d like to go for, you can use the following as a quick guide to help give your recommendation:

      Your Client May Prefer Classic Lashes If…

      • They want a natural, ‘mascara’ effect finish.
      • They have naturally thick lashes and simply want to add some length.
      • They have plenty of suitable natural lashes and want a defined appearance.
      • They prefer the price and appointment time offered for your classic service.

      Your Client May Prefer Volume Lashes If…

      • They want a fuller or fluffier appearance.
      • They want more fullness and their natural lashes can support appropriately selected fans.
      • They prefer a soft fan-based finish, whether subtle or dramatic.
      • They’re comfortable with the price and appointment time for your volume service.

      Whichever technique they choose, regular aftercare and maintenance still matter. Volume lashes do not automatically mean longer retention or fewer fills.

      Classic lashes on a model

      There is of course the option to create a Hybrid effect – a collaboration of both techniques – which we explore in our classic vs. hybrid lashes comparison. But hopefully this guide to Classic and Volume lashes will help both you and your clients figure out which technique is most suitable for them!

      Classic vs Volume Lashes FAQs

      Can Volume Lashes Look Natural?

      Yes! Volume describes the fan-based application technique, not one fixed level of drama. Suitable finer extensions, smaller fans and a thoughtful choice of length and curl can create a soft finish. Your Lash Technician can help match the design to your preferences and natural lashes.

      What Is the Difference Between Classic and 2D Lashes?

      Classic application uses one extension per suitable natural lash. A 2D volume fan contains two finer extensions attached together to one natural lash. The overall weight still needs to suit the natural lash – simply counting the extensions does not establish suitability.

      Can You Mix Classic and Volume Lashes?

      Yes. Combining individual classic extensions with volume fans creates a hybrid set. It can offer a mix of definition and fluffiness. For a closer look, read our guide to classic and hybrid lashes.