When is A Lash Fill Not A Lash Fill? How Making A Rule About Lash Fills Will Save Your Client Relationships

Lash FIlls are a really important part of eyelash extension maintenance, so it’s important to make sure our clients are coming regularly for them. Due to the growth cycle of natural lashes, one week too many in between lash fills can be the difference between a lash fill, and a fresh set.

It might seem dramatic to suggest that you have a strict policy in place for lash fills, but this is an area where a lot of beginner lash technicians (and even those who have been lashing for a while!) struggle to know how, and even if, to set a policy. 

Here’s everything you need to know about why you should have a lash fill policy in place, plus some tips for when your client’s lash retention doesn’t quite go according to plan!

Why Should You Have A Lash Fill Policy? 

While simple on the surface, lash fills can quite quickly turn into an absolute nightmare where timing appointments is concerned. Generally speaking, you’re going to be booking clients in for lash fills for about half the time you’d book them in for a full set of lashes. This is fine if there’s two weeks’ worth of regrowth, but if you leave it too long you’ll have quite the job on your hands applying new extensions to those bare lashes. 

This is where a policy comes in. Making it a rule that clients come back to you every 3 weeks at most basically ensures that you’ll always have time to apply the extensions that you need to, and won’t be caught out by those clients who book an infill at 6 weeks and come back in with a couple of fans hanging on for dear life.

A digitally drawn infographic showing the difference between a full set of lashes and a lash fill | London Lash Canada

Another rule to consider having in place is that if a client has less than 40% of their lashes left at their lash fill, it will count as a full set. While this won’t necessarily stop you feeling stressed when someone does come in with lots of gaps, it will mean that the client is coming in with the knowledge that they will either not get the coverage they’re used to, or will be charged for a full set. 

What About Different Growth Rates?

The longer you lash someone, the more you’ll come to understand their growth rate and cycle. Some clients may require more frequent fills than others, and that is something that can be discussed on an individual basis if you decide that’s what’s best for you and for them. 

a digitally drawn GIF demonstrating the growth cycle of a natural eyelash | London Lash Canada

You may also find that at certain times during the year, clients who typically have a slower growth rate will experience more rapid growth – you’re likely to notice this once per season, but you may find that the summer months cause the fastest lash growth for those clients who love to get out and about, as the sun causes our hair and nails to grow faster than normal. Again, explain this to your clients and see what you can do to get their lashes looking as full as you possibly can.

What to do if Your Client is Late for Their Lash Fill

In an ideal world, this would never happen. In lash world though, it will happen far more often than you’d like! Here are a few tips to help you get nice full lash fills when you have less time than you’d originally planned.

  • Use the taping back method for infills. Once you’ve removed the grown out extensions and have completed your pre-treatment, take a piece of 3M Micropore Tape and use it to gently lift the already extended lashes so that the uncovered lashes pop out. Secure the tape at the ends so that it is just resting on the lashes and won’t pull on them when you remove the tape. By exposing the uncovered lashes, you save time on isolating to find the uncovered lashes. When you do come to remove the tape, hold the lashes down and take the tape off slowly to avoid pulling off the lashes.
a photo of some lashes during a lash fill. The extended lashes have been taped back, and some bare natural lashes are exposed, ready for extensions | London Lash Canada
  • Ensure the bottom layer is completely covered. This is the first thing your client will see when they open their eyes, so the more covered the bottom layer is the better. Aim for at least 50% coverage on the middle layer, and do what you can with the top layer.
  • NEVER skip pre-treatment or stickie checks – aside from ensuring good retention, a pre-treatment routine serves to keep your clients’ eyes safe and healthy. Stickie checks are also essential for ensuring that your lash sets don’t cause any damage.

Lastly, remember that if your client is too late, it’s in your best interest (and any client booked in after them) to reschedule. They may be a little put out by it, but rebooking them also ensures they get the coverage they’re used to.